Crochet in the round

Crochet in the round means you work in a circle instead of back and forth. It is how hats, coasters, bags and toys are made. This guide uses US terms: sc means single crochet.

Starting a circle: the magic ring

A magic ring, also called a magic circle, makes a closed centre.

1. Make a loop in your yarn, with the tail crossing over the working end, and hold it between your thumb and finger.
2. Put your hook through the loop and pull up a loop of the working yarn.
3. Chain 1 to lock it. This chain does not count as a stitch.
4. Work your first round of stitches into the ring, over both the ring and the tail. For a basic circle, work 6 sc.
5. Pull the tail gently. The ring closes like a drawstring.

Close the centre only after you have worked the first round. A slightly loose ring can be tightened later, and you can weave the tail in neatly on the wrong side.

The chain ring alternative

A chain ring is easier to make and leaves a small hole.

1. Chain 4. Chain 3 or 5 is also common, depending on the pattern.
2. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring.
3. Chain 1, then work your first round of stitches into the centre of the ring, not into the chain stitches.

This method is good when you are learning. A small hole is also useful when you want a tiny opening, as in a flower.

Gordon’s tip: If you cannot get the magic ring to work at first, use the chain ring and come back later. Gordon thinks there is no shame in a small hole.

Making the circle grow

A circle needs more stitches each round, or it will pucker and curl. For single crochet, the usual pattern adds 6 stitches per round, spread evenly.

• Round 1: 6 sc in the ring. (6 stitches)
• Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch. (12 stitches)
• Round 3: *Sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch; repeat from * around. (18 stitches)
• Round 4: *Sc in next 2 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch; repeat from * around. (24 stitches)
• Round 5: *Sc in next 3 stitches, 2 sc in next; repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

The pattern is clear: each round has one more plain stitch between the increases. In this example, which starts with 6 single crochet and adds 6 stitches every round, each round has 6 times the round number of stitches. Other patterns start with a different count or use taller stitches, so follow the numbers in your pattern.

Stop increasing when the circle is as wide as you want. Then work even, with no increases, to make the sides of a hat or a basket go straight up.

Joined rounds or a spiral

There are two ways to move from one round to the next.

Joined rounds. At the end of each round, slip stitch into the first stitch. Then chain 1 (or the number your pattern says) and turn or continue. You can see a seam where each round joins. Joined rounds give you a neat start for each round and make it easy to change colour. Some patterns turn the work at each join, which changes the direction.

Spiral. You do not join. You keep working stitch after stitch in a continuous spiral. There is no seam, which is good for toys. The downside is that you lose track of where the round starts. A stitch marker in the first stitch of each round solves this. Move it up as you pass it.

Both are normal, and a pattern will tell you which to use. If it does not, spiral is common for toys and hats, and joined rounds are common for coasters and blankets.

Counting and checking

Count your stitches at the end of every round. A circle that has the wrong number of stitches will not lie flat. If you have too few, you missed an increase. If you have too many, you made one too many. Pull back to the round where the count went wrong. It is easier to fix at once than to build on a mistake.

Practice

Work five rounds as shown above, starting with a magic ring and ending at 30 stitches. Check that your circle lies flat. Then try the same thing with a chain ring and compare the centre.