Reading a knitting pattern
Patterns are written in a compact shorthand. Learn the abbreviations, the way sizes and repeats are written, and how to pick the right size before you cast on.
Updated
A knitting pattern looks like code at first glance. It is a short language with a small vocabulary, and once you know the parts it becomes quite readable. This guide takes you through the sections of a typical pattern, from abbreviations to the schematic.
The parts of a pattern
Most patterns follow the same order.
- Title and photos. Often with a note on difficulty.
- Sizes and finished measurements. What you will get at each size.
- Materials. Yarn, needle sizes, notions such as stitch markers, buttons or a tapestry needle.
- Gauge. How many stitches and rows make 10 cm. See the guide on gauge.
- Abbreviations and special techniques.
- Instructions. The long part, in order from cast on to finishing.
- Charts and schematic. Visual help for shaping and stitch patterns.
Read the whole pattern once before you buy yarn. It tells you what techniques are coming and whether you feel ready.
Common abbreviations
Here are some you will meet often. Check your own pattern’s list too.
- k: knit. p: purl.
- st / sts: stitch / stitches.
- k2tog: knit two stitches together, a decrease that leans right.
- ssk: slip, slip, knit. A decrease that leans left.
- yo: yarn over, making a new stitch and a small hole.
- m1: make one, an increase.
- rs / ws: right side / wrong side.
- pm / sm: place marker / slip marker.
- rep: repeat.
- BO / CO: bind off / cast on.
Sizes, repeats and brackets
Patterns that come in several sizes write the numbers for each size in a row. A common style is the smallest size first, with the other sizes in parentheses: “Cast on 80 (88, 96, 104) stitches.” Some designers use square brackets or slashes instead. If you are knitting the second size, you would cast on 88.
A tip: before you start, go through the pattern and mark your size every time. Use a highlighter, or an app that does it for you.
Repeats are written with asterisks or brackets.
- “*K2, p2; rep from * to end” means knit 2, purl 2, and keep repeating that group to the end of the row.
- “[K1, yo] 3 times” means do the bracketed steps three times.
- “Rep from * to last 2 sts” means stop two stitches before the end and finish with whatever the pattern says next.
When the pattern says “work even”, keep going in the same stitch pattern with no increases or decreases.
Gordon’s tip: Use a pencil and put a small tick next to each completed row of the pattern. You will always know where you are, even after a break.
Charts and the schematic
A chart is a small grid. Each square is one stitch and each symbol stands for a stitch type. A key beside the chart explains the symbols.
- Read charts from the bottom up.
- On the right side rows, read from right to left, the same way you knit.
- On the wrong side rows of flat knitting, read from left to right. In the round, every row is read right to left.
- A thick outline often marks the repeat. Work those stitches again and again across the row.
The schematic is a simple drawing of the finished piece with measurements. It shows width, length, sleeve length and so on for each size. It is the most useful part of the pattern for choosing a size.
Choosing your size
Do not choose by the size on a shop label. Choose by measurements.
- Measure the chest or the part of your body the garment covers.
- Look at the pattern’s finished measurements, not the body measurements.
- Decide how much ease you want. Ease is the difference between the garment and your body. A close fit has about 0 to 5 cm of ease, a relaxed fit 5 to 15 cm, and an oversized fit more.
- Pick the size whose finished chest is closest to your body measurement plus your chosen ease.
If you are unsure, measure a favourite jumper laid flat and compare its width with the schematic.